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When we first moved to Ubud, we quickly discovered one of its hidden secrets and totally quite by accident.
We were invited to a roast lunch, hosted by the S.O’s friend, at a place called Han Snel.
The Sunday roast lunch we enjoyed.Having no idea what it was – A restuarant? A warung? Someone’s home? – we had to call the organiser for directions, before and even during our journey down to the venue, which was located on Jalan Kajeng near central Ubud.
When we arrived, the sign at the entrance of the place read: Han Snel Bungalows & Gallery.
There was a driveway sufficiently large for two APVs to pass side-by-side but could only park three similar vehicles length wise.
Walking through the entrance of the property and down a short pebbled path flanked by tropical plants, we passed the reception area on the right, which was immediately followed by the on-site restaurant’s dining area.
Straight ahead was the bar, which was flanked on the right by a medium fish pond and on the the left by a Balinese gate entrance.
Looking at the bar while approaching from the entrance.
The Balinese gate entrance.Walking through that entrance, we arrived at a collection of rooms that were cosy yet looked comfortable.
Each of the rooms had an attached bathroom and terrace.
One of the rooms, viewed from the terrace.Beyond the fish pond mentioned early was another area that was transformed in to an art gallery exhibiting the paintings of Han Snel, the man that this place was named after.
The fish pond, with the art gallery in the back.Turns out that this is a homestay bungalow cum art gallery established by the Dutch man Han Snel and his Balinese wife when he was living in Ubud. Snel has passed on, but Ibu Siti still lives on the premises and runs the place.
It seems that back when Snel was alive, this was the place to be seen at. There were several dinner parties, and after-party parties where many long-time Bali expatriates and some more open-minded locals always attended.
However, as with all places that attract a crowd based on the charm and charisma of its owner, the place died a natural death with Snel’s passing.
The gallery is still open and free for whomever wants to find out more about the artist and view his works.
The rooms at the Han Snel Bungalow are available for rent. Rates start from Rp150,000 (approximately US$17 / €12) per night for a garden view room with fan, when we asked back in April of 2009. It is advisable to check directly with them, view their website: http://www.hansnelbungalow.com/reservation.html
For more information about Han Snel, click to this Wikipedia article on Han Snel.
Here are a few more pictures of the place for your enjoyment.
Exterior of the river view room.
View looking out from the above room. There is also a swimming pool located on the level below the room.
View of the restaurant and bar from the same room.
Portrait of Han Snel at the end of the bar area.It is supposed to be raining season in Bali now. The season was supposed to have begun in late October or early November and end only in early March.
In past years, approximately at this time, we are enjoying the warm and dry weather somewhere in Thailand while heavy downpours cover the island of the Gods.
However, when rain arrives, it has been sparse. It is a rain consisting of moderate, thin and light drops falling for about three hours maximum. This brief respite also happens only once every three or four days, usually when the heat from the bright sun has caused a more than a number of heat related illnesses.
Quite a far cry from the rain of past years, which was thick, fact, relentless assault of torrential water dumped for eight hours at a stretch, four days in a row.
Then, if you headed out, you had to bring a towel to dry off plus an extra set of clothes and footwear to change in to.
What is happening here in Bali, where the much anticipated and welcomed raining season is all but disappearing? Could the island also be suffering the effects of climate change?
While rain is inconvenient for office-bound employees on work days, and for well-groomed couples meeting for a date night, it is essential for the livelihood of the Balinese. Many of them still rely on agriculture for a living and use free running water for their daily needs such as bathing and laundry.
Although there is an ingenious irrigation system used in the rice fields here (this deserves a separate entry on its own), if occassional rain does not keep the fields irrigated, the rice saplings are unable to develop fully. Spice and coffee plantations also rely on the seasonal rains for irrigation before the next planting cycle starts.
For the average Balinese, especially those living in higher lands like Bedugal and Ubud, they collect water that flows direct from the mountains and hills for everyday chorse such as bathing and washing. It is not uncommon to find a Balinese lady standing in the ditch with water arriving at her waist either washing the family’s laundry or soaping herself as the water runs by. This water is also used to wash their dishes, water their plants and clean their home compounds.
For expatriates here, depending on which part of Bali we have settled in, some of us rely on ground wells for water that is used in the home. In our home, the water pumped up from our ground well is used for washing dishes, doing the laundry, general cleaning and bathing. Whenever there is insufficient water in the well, we have to substitute with the water from gallon bottles, which are normally used for drinking, cooking and brushing teeth.
Personally, I love the smell of rain and the cool respite it brings. There is also something rejuvenating about rain – it is almost like a symbolic thing that washes away whatever that was bad or bothering me, while refreshing me at the same time. Rain always makes me feel more awake in my thoughts and feelings, so the lack of it at this moment is sorely felt by me.
As I look out of the window while rounding off this entry, dark clouds are gathering over the space of sky ahead. Hopefully they will open up before evening ends, so that we have a cool night’s rest tonight.
Hello everyone, I have been extremely slack in updating this blog of mine, considering that there are so many wonderful things and events that happen daily in Bali.
For the new year, I have decided on this plan:
1) Shift the blog to a new platform – will inform you of the new URL to bookmark.
2) Update the blog at least once a week.
3) Update to cover at one of these areas of interest for visitors of Bali: place to stay; where to eat; what to do; events.
If you have any ideas or suggestions about what you want to see on this blog, let me know. Eventually, it is to be a resource first for my friends who are coming to Bali then everyone else.
Happy 2010!
During my first visit to Ubud – and Bali – three and a half years ago, I entered the photography gallery of Rio Helmi along Jalan Suweta.
Actually, at first look, every piece on display looked like paintings. Such was the high quality of the prints. Later, I would learn that not only is Rio Helmi a professional photographer who has a keen eye for details, he also insists on using only the best quality materials for developing and producing the prints for his photography prints gallery in Ubud. These include traditional wet prints in both colour and black & white, digital prints in archival ink on archival paper, and ink on polyvinyl poster, among others. There are limited numbers of the photographic prints available at his photographic prints gallery in Ubud, and all are signed by Rio Helmi himself.
Although Rio has experience in all kinds of photojournalism photography work, published books of interior photography, and other commercial photography work, in my opinion, his best pictures are the ones that capture the essence and spirit of Bali.
Why do the photographs of Bali by Rio stand out? Besides capturing a slice of life – *that* moment in time – in Bali, each of the images seem to have its personal story waiting to be told. Whether it is a shadow of a dancer cast on the ground, a close-up of a dancer in a trance during the performance, or an aerial view of a seaweed farm, when you look at the images, it seems as if the tale behind them is popping out from within and grabbing your attention with a firm grip on your head.
I also say this from personal experience. After moving to Bali, I had the great fortune of making the acquaintance of Rio through my husband and some common friends. Through work functions and social functions, we have grown to become friends with Rio and over the past three years, we have been privileged to see quite a number of his work at his studio.
In fact, he generously sponsored the shoot and images for our pre-wedding photographs. Also, as he is always moving around with a camera (and his trusty Mac book) in hand, he has captured moments during various occasions in our lives, such as our Balinese blessing ceremony and gatherings with our infant son. The images are always vivid, and seem alive.
Perhaps it is his long residency (approximately more than 30 years) in Bali, which has given him an unparalleled insight to this island. Or perhaps it is the different cultures and sights that Rio was exposed during his childhood, when together with his Turkish mother, Rio followed his Indonesian diplomat father on various postings.
The exposure that Rio gained in his early years could also explain the interest that this professional commercial photographer has for humanitarian issues, political issues, and advances in technology. He is never without a subject of discussion for his blog.
Well, my very interesting and engaging commercial photographer friend turned 55 years old on November 12, and from the looks of things, Rio Helmi has geared himself up for more years of photo-shooting and opinion-giving.
Happy birthday, pak Rio! Hopefully I can be as witty, sharp-witted and still possess a keen eye for detail when I reach 55 years old. May the following year bring you greater fortunes, lasting happiness and more impressive work!
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