Here are some useful Indonesian phrases when you go shopping in Bali.

I am looking for…: Saya mau cari…
Baskets/ placemats/ sandals/ sarong/ pillow: Keranjang (say ‘keh-rahn-jahng’)/ placemats/ sandal (say ’sahn-dahl’)/ sarong/ bantal (say ‘bahn-tile’)
If I take many, can give me a better price?: Kalau saya ambil banyak, harganya bisa kurang?
Any other colours?: Ada warna lain?
Any other sizes?: Ada ukuran lain?
How much (price)? Berapa harga?

Numbers:
One Satu
Two Dua
Three Tiga
Four Empat
Five Lima
Six Enam
Seven Tujuh
Eight Delapan
Nine Sembilan
10 Sepuluh
11 Sebelas
12 Dua belas
20 Dua puluh
30 Tiga puluh
100 Seratus
200 Dua ratus
11,000 Sebelas ratus
1,000 Seribu
2,000 Dua ribu
1,000,000 Satu juta
2,000,000 Dua juta

More phrases to come in the next post

 

We spent the weekend at Nusa (island) Lembongan off the east coast of Bali, accessible via a one-and-half-hour fast ferry ride from Benoa Harbour in Bali.

There are many companies operating transfers to Lembongan island, but we opted to go with Bali Hai Cruises as they had options of a day-only cruise (Beach Club Cruise, Reef Cruise, Aristocat Nusa Lembongan Cruise) or inclusive of an overnight stay at Lembongan island in one of their well-known Hai Tide Huts (US$125 per person).

We had previously brought a friend, who was visiting from Italy, on the day-only Beach Club Cruise in early March. This time, we had a friend visiting from Kanchanaburi in Thailand and we decided to stay overnight on Lembongan island in the Hai Tide Huts.

Similar as before, we arrived at Bali Hai Cruises at 8.30am. This time, we had to check-in at a counter dedicated for Hai Tide Huts stays on Lembongan island. Besides our boarding pass, coloured hand tags (different colours indicate the Bali Hai Cruise package the person has taken) and leaflet on the activities available at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon and beach club, we also received additional meal coupons for breakfast on the second day, and tickets for our return transfer back the following afternoon to Benoa Harbour in Bali on the Bali Hai II.

We started boarding the Bali Hai II boat at around 8.45am to 9am. Everyone stopped to pose with two girls dressed in traditional Balinese costume, while the Bali Hai II boat hummed quietly in the background as the Bali Hai Cruise photographer took the snaps.

We already had a family picture taken on the previous Beach Club cruise, which we purchased for Rp40,000 (approx. S$5.70/ Eur2.60) after we disembarked on our return to Benoa Harbour in Bali. So this time, we let our Thai friend have her photograph taken.

Once onboard the Bali Hai II, we were served some muffins and Danish, and had free flow of coffee and tea until the boat left Benoa Harbour at 9.15am.

It was the first time on a boat transfer for our friend, and fearing that she may become sea sick on the short trip to Lembongan island, I took Antonio and her to the open-air top deck for fresh air.

The staff kept coming around to carry Antonio as they remembered him from our last trip. An Indian couple from Mumbai – husband is working in Singapore – who were having their short 7-days honeymoon in Bali wanted a photograph with Antonio. So somewhere in Mumbai or Singapore, our little one has become a mini-celebrity!

Antonio continued to entertain passengers – consisting of Koreans, Japanese, Australians, Americans and others – with his antics and insistence of walking around on the deck.

At approximately 10.30pm, we arrived at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon moored off Lembongan island. Those on the Beach Club Cruise had many options: head straight to the Bali Hai Beach Club on Lembongan island and make use of facilities – swimming pool; massage; local village tour – there, or stay on the pontoon for parasailing; diving; snorkelling; banana boat trips; view marine life from the underwater viewing chamber, or view corals in a semi-submersible coral viewer.

The first time, the S.O. and our Italian friend went off on a Discovery scuba dive (US$50 approx. S$72.95/ Eur36.70 per person for new divers, US$40 per person for experienced divers; 30-minutes; approx. S$58.35/ Eur29.35) while Antonio and myself watched them swimming among the variety of marine life from within the underwater viewing chamber at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon.

When they returned, I strapped in for the parasailing (US$20 per person for 10 minutes; approx. S$29/ Eur14.70) over the waters off Lembongan island. The view from the sky is amazing! As the waters were clear that day, I could see the coral reefs from where I was in the air and the island also looked different from the air.

This time though, we immediately took the small transfer boat from the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon and headed straight to the Beach Club on Lembongan island so that we could deposit our overnight luggage for our stay in the Hai Tide Huts.

We had only sufficient time to check in and leave our bags in one www.balicruises.com/sea/balihai/hai_tide.html before the first Lembongan island village tour of the day departed at 11am. There were about 16 of us who wanted to have a look at Lembongan island village, and we were transported around in two pick-up trucks fitted with wooden benches that had a cushion running the length of each bench. It was not the most comfortable or chic sitting aparatus, but it fitted the rustic feel of the locale.

First stop was where Lembongan island locals dry seaweed that is farmed and harvested off the shores of Lembongan island.


Initially left in the sun for the morning, the seaweed is later washed then tied and hung in small sheds to fully dry. Fully dried and clean seaweed can be used to make agar agar.

We were also treated to a spectacular view from a cliff top of wooden boats floating on pristine waters, and you could see the flourishing seaweed in the seaweed farms.

After the expansive view of the ocean, we were brought to experience something totally opposite – underground, enclosed, and dark. It was the Gala Gala underground house on Lembongan island that had been built by Made Dyasa – a farmer, shadow puppet performer and priest – from 1961 to 1976, after being inspired by a Hindu epic tale about how a person named Pandawas built a cave to protect his family from persecutors, and called it Gala Gala.

Made Dyasa’s cave on Lembongan island has seven steep entrances, three of which have been adapted for entrance and exit by tourists; three ventilation spaces; a well; a living area; two kitchen areas; two bedrooms, and a bathroom.


After this adventure, we returned to the Beach Club where a barbecue buffet lunch (inclusive in the package) was served from 12.15pm to 2.15pm.

The buffet lunch included grilled and barbecue meats, salad, fruit, a selection of western and Balinese cakes, drinking water, and coffee & tea. We only had to pay for drinks like juices and beer, which seemed fair since no one knows how much beer or juice a person can imbibe!

Lunch at the Bali Hai Beach Club is always an interesting affair. The first time around, the staff came by to assist us and play with Antonio. This time, we met an Italian couple in their 60s having a vacation at the end of a working trip.

After lunch on the first trip, we had exposed Antonio to a number of firsts: first time playing with sand on the beach, first time meeting a crab, and first time swimming in a proper pool.

He remembered that time well, and became excited when he saw the swimming pool at the Beach Club again. So all of us went in to the pool as quickly as we possibly could. This time, we introduced him to some of the floats but he did not seem too pleased with these foreign objects.

At 2.45pm, the final small boat transfer departed with passengers on the day-only Beach Club Cruise for the Bali Hai II parked at the pontoon. We marvelled at how quiet it was, and revelled in the feeling of exclusivity that permeated the Beach Club. Although we counted at least seven other occupied Hai Tide huts, everyone else was either sleeping inside or were out enaged in a water activity of some sort.

After spending an hour splashing around in the sea and walking along the short beach on our part of Lembongan island, we decided to call on one of our friends at the Batu Karang Lembongan Resort & Day Spa, which is owned by his family, at the adjacent beach on Lembongan island.


Another converted pick-up brought us from Bali Hai Cruises Beach Club to the luxury villa resort. When there, we were treated to an amazing vista of the north part of Lembongan island, the east coast of Bali and Mount Agung.

We walked down to the beach view the seaweed farm at this part of Lembongan island. A lack of breeze or wind to stave off the unrelenting strong suns’ rays made it difficult to cover the length of the beach at 5pm.

Thus we headed back to the Beach Club and chilled out as the sun set. Tired from the long day, and with no entertainment options on Lembongan island (no television, radio, proper bars/clubs, shopping), we had a quick meal at the wooden dining deck of the Bali Hai club house. By 9pm, we had all fallen asleep to the sound of waves lapping on the beach.


The next day, we had an early start with breakfast at 8am. An hour later we all went in to the pool with Antonio and enjoyed having it entirely to us. By 10.30pm, the day’s batch of Beach Club Cruise and Hai Tide Huts vacationers arrived at the Beach Club on Lembongan island.

Our Thai friend and I decided to follow the 11am snorkelling tour while the S.O. rested in the Hai Tide Hut with Antonio. After picking our fins, snorkel equipment and life jacket, we were transferred to a smaller pontoon flaoting about 100 metres from the big Bali Hai Cruises pontoon.

The activity was alright – I did not dare to swim far out as the current seemed strong and I was already tired from the morning’s activities in the pool.

We returned to the Beach Club on Lembongan island after 45 minutes. After drying up and changing, we had lunch and then took the boat transfer back to the pontoon.

Upon arrival at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon, we decided to go in to the semi-submersible coral viewer. Big mistake – the short trip left all of us feeling quesy in the stomach. However, by the time the Bali Hai II left the pontoon at about 3.15pm, we were feeling better.

We arrived back at Bali Hai Cruises around 4.30pm, feeling slightly tired by happy. It was an extremely fun and relaxing trip. We highly recommend it to anyone who can set aside two days from their visit to Bali for this.

 

Insect under a leaf. (Taken on April 3 with my iPhone.)
A view from the path snaking in to the rice paddies behind our home. (Taken on April 8.)
Brought our two dogs along for the walk and they make interesting contrasts of colour and height. (Taken on April 8.)
Fancy stopping for a cuppa and a chat among nature? (Taken on April 8.)
Decorations made for the Balinese festival of Galungan, left to stand until the next one arrives 180 days later. (Taken on April 8.)
A group on a morning walk of the rice field listens intently to their guide’s commentary about the importance of rumahs (houses) in Balinese culture. (Taken on April 8.)
How our row of houses look like from the back. (Taken on April 8.)
Antonio taking *his* walk. (Taken on April 8.)
An expression that expresses everything he is feeling. (Taken on April 8.)
Harvesting rice on the rice paddies behind our home. (Taken on April 12.)
Another view. (Taken on April 12.)
Ducks frolicking in the cleared paddies as evening creeps in. (Taken on Apr 13 with my iPhone.)
Early morning feeding for the ducks on the freshly irrigated rice paddie behind our home. (Taken on Apr 14.)
 

Pasar (market) shopping

On April 11, 2009, in bargaining, market/pasar, shopping, by cea
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Since beginning of this February, we have finally moved to the place in Bali that pulled me from Singapore – Ubud. I remember sitting on the porch of a villa in Nyuh Kuning, listening to the birds singing, and absorbing the picturesque garden surrounding us, and thinking: “I could move here, I could live in Bali!”

Jimbaran was a different story, but Ubud is my dream come true.

Not just because we live in a rented double-storey house with a tiny garden & front porch, three bedrooms with ensuite bathroom, an upper terrace, a spacious living area, and an average-sized kitchen.

A huge plus of this house is the fantastic view that greets us every morning. There is also the melodious gamelan music accompaniament of the traditional dance performances from the Pura Dalem thrice weekly at night.

What I love about the location of our home in Ubud is that it is a five minute walk from the front gate to the main road, Jalan Raya Ubud. Turn left towards the market, Royal Palace and soccor field; turn right towards Campuhan, Penestanan and Naughty Nuri’s warung!

Not all places are within walking distance though. Such as the two big supermarkets Delta Dewata and Bintang. Shopping there is a comfort that is reserved for times when the S.O. is available to drive us there.

Otherwise, the domestic help have been instructed to make purchases from pasar Ubud (Ubud market), a 15 minutes walk each way. This is the main market for residents in the villages that comprise Ubud, from Penestanan; Campuhan; to Nyuh Kuning; Kutuh Kaja; & Pengosokan. This is where an Ubudian gets his/her poultry, vegetables, fruit, spices, grains, and other items necessary for cooking.

The Ubud market is split in to two sections and three levels:
Basement level – wet market of meat and vegetables, and food stalls.
1st level – a combination of shops selling souvenirs; made-in-Bali clothing, accessories, home ware and paintings; the dry market where fruit, vegetables and condiments are sold.
2nd level – a combination of shops selling made-in-Bali clothing, accessories, home ware and paintings.

The market is currently known as Pasar Seni Ubud, meaning Ubud art market. Its current name indicates how the pasar has evolved from a traditional local market in to an ‘art’ market catering to tourists hunting for Bali souvenirs.

In fact, there are more shops selling souvenir items than daily groceries! This happened due to the burgeoning tourist numbers that keep coming to the Ubud market.

Even the facade of the market is a testimony to this shift: as you gaze on the market from its exterior, all you see are souvenirs, accessories, bed spreads, home furnishing, and clothing spilling forth from the shops, forming a colourful facade that hides the interior structure of the market.

Interestingly, the tourism that pasar Ubud sees are mainly from Australia, Europe, America, and Japan. Indonesian tourists from Java, Sulawesi and other parts of the country will be brought to the pasar Sukawati instead, an approximate 20-minute drive from pasar Ubud.

What is the difference in the two markets?

Other than the clientele, the biggest difference is the price of items.

The same pair of sandals begin at Rp10,000 (approx. €0.65/ S$1.35) here as compared to Rp15,000 (approx. €1/ S$2) in Ubud.

The same sarong begins at Rp50,000 (approx. €3.365/ S$6.70) here as compared to Rp120,000 approx. (approx. €8/ S$16) in Ubud.

The same t-shirt for kids begins at Rp15,000 here instead of Rp50,000 at Ubud.

Same items made from the same materials from the same factory in Bali, sold at different prices. You get the idea.

This comparison shows the stark reality of how tourism can, and has, driven prices in Ubud up.

For those who are unaware of the situation, the thought of haggling over Rp10,000 difference seems unfair to the locals, even when prices are already low. However, for Bali residents, Rp10,000 is the difference being labelled a savvy shopper or a gullible person whom the shopkeepers can fleece repeatedly.

There is also a rumour that the shopkeepers use different colour plastic bags for spreading the word about a savvy (black) shopper versus a gullible (red) shopper.

Although each time I walk past the pasar there does not seem to be that many red plastic bags in circulation, if this rumour is true, you can hinder it by putting your purchases in to your own canvas or cloth bag, which is what I do. Doing this also helps reduce the use of plastic bags.

The shopkeepers may not be wealthy, but they are certainly not impoverished. They have been in this business for longer than we have been tourists.

So do not worry, go ahead and push prices down by about 30 to 40 per cent of the initial asking price. Most times, you get a better bargain, and the shopkeeper still earns a profit.

Happy pasar shopping!

 

"Bisa kurang?"

On April 5, 2009, in bargaining, market/pasar, shopping, ubud, by cea
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(translation: “”Can better price?”)

That is one additonal phrase that any visitor to Bali should know, besides the usual thank you (terima kasih), numbers one to 10 (satu ke sepuluh), how are you (apa khabar), and harga berapa (price how much).

“Bisa kurang” is a useful phrase to wield when shopping in Bali, especially at the pasars (markets) and some shops. It is a taken that you have to bargain when shopping at the market: the locals expect it, and it is a way of life here as well as in most Asian countries.

But unlike Singapore, you will discover that in many of the one-storey shops one-storey shops lining the roads of Bali, there are no price tags on goods. This is usually an indication that the price is quoted based on the currency owned by the person shopping. One of the first questions the shopkeeper will ask when you enter is “Where are you from?”

The most expensive price is reserved for the Japanese, which I have been mistaken for many times, while Europeans and Australians are quoted a slightly lesser amount. The going rate for Singaporeans is about 30 per-cent more than what the Malaysians, Indonesians and long-time Bali expatriate residents are quoted, which is already 10 to 20 per-cent more than what the locals will pay.
Note: These are approximate estimates.

Of course, being able to speak the language helps in securing a lower price or better bargain: “I pay Rp80,000 (approx. €5.35/ S$10.70) for bag but I get this scarf free, okay?”

It is better still if you prove to be a savvy shopper: “I just asked at another shop at the other side and they asked only Rp20,000 (approx. €5.35/ S$2.70) for this shirt but you ask for Rp30,000?”

For untrained shoppers, it may seem silly to be haggling over a difference of Rp5,000 (approx. €0.35/ S$0.70) or Rp10,000 (approx. €0.65/ S$1.35). For those of us who are used to life here, we know that the scarf you paid Rp90,000 (approx. €6/ S$12) for costs less than Rp5,000 per piece, especially when they buy in bulk to sell. Thus, the seller still makes a huge profit even if you bring the price down by Rp5,000.

In all honesty, the fun in bargaining is the process itself. The shopkeepers delight in this game of ‘I know how you think’ as it keeps their thought processes working. Many times, once the right price is struck, they feel happy at having made a good deal out of a sale and more than anything else, their wide smiles are a sight to look on.

Have I been effective in passing off as an Indonesian living in Bali? On first glance, everyone speaks to me in either Japanese or English. Then when I reply in Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesia langauge), everyone thinks I am from Sulawesi or Java and start rattling off in Bahasa Indonesia.

I have to confess that my understanding of the language is much better than my speech abilities, so most times I have to quickly think on my feet to formulate an answer that passes off as authentic Bahasa Indonesia!

However, this charade has helped in securing slightly better deals when I go shopping.

Take for example the time when I went shopping for sarongs at the pasar in Ubud. The opening offer was Rp170,000 (approx. €11.40/ S$22.70) for a traditional print sarong, and Rp120,000 (approx. €8/ S$16) for a block colour sarong with a little embroidery detail.

After exclaiming “Mahal!” (expensive) and asking “Bisa kurang?” after saying “Satu motif aku mau beli dua biji.” (each pattern I want to buy two pieces), Ibu asked the defining question: “Ibu dari mana?” (Where are you from?) My answer of Java brought the prices down to Rp30,000 (approx. €2/ S$4) for the former and Rp45,000 (approx. €3/ S$6) for two pieces of the latter. Of course I made the purchase!

At a shop selling copy DVD movies, the worker could not reduce the price of Rp15,000 (approx. €1/ S$2) per piece but could offer me two free pieces for every five purchased. That works out to Rp150,000 (approx. €10/ S$20) for 14 pieces or about Rp10,715 (approx. €0.72/ S$1.45) per piece.

I did not make the purchase in the end because I could get 12 pieces for Rp100,000 approx. €6.70/ S$13.35) at shops in Legian, Kuta, Seminyak, Jimbaran, Denpasar and Sanur. This works out to about Rp8,335 (approx. €0.55/ S$1.10) each. Even adding the cost of bensin (fuel) at Rp4,800 (approx. €0.32/ S$0.64) per litre for travelling elsewhere to buy the DVDs, it would still be more economical to buy them elsewhere outside of Ubud.

And in case you are wondering, DVD movies, television drama series (Monk, Lost, Heroes etc.) and music albums are more easily available than the original ones here in Bali. Go figure!

Even if you cannot pass off as a Balinese or Indonesian, try to at least speak the language so that you can engage in some banter with the local shopkeepers. They always appreciate it when others try to learn their language and engage them using Bahasa Indonesia.